Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Congratulations Heath - Black Knight for 2011

Congrats To Heath Joske - BKIII winner from Waves Magazine on Vimeo.

Chilled Chile

I'm currently on a WQS stint that is taking me to California, Brazil and Portugal. After the California contest I had a 2 week break before brazil and Shaun Cansdell and I jumped at the opportunity to get back down to Chile. There were no contests, no photographers or videographers, just us and an abundance of lefthanders. I think Shaun was in goofy heaven. Here are a few snaps I procured during my chilled out holiday in Chile.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Time and Chance

The pics below are a sequence of a wave I was lucky enough to catch one morning a couple of weeks ago. I was floating around not getting much and then this wave happened to pop up in front of me. I was really excited as we don't often get that many good lefts. This was one of the better ones I've had lately.

Photos by Paul Joseph.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Cover Boy.

Make sure you check out the June issue of Coffs Coast Focus magazine.
Just wait till you see the centerfold.

Friday, May 20, 2011

May Daze

The waves have been pretty incredible the last few weeks here and I've been hearing about waves all up and down the coast. It feels like every morning I get up and there's still swell. We usually don't get that many good waves over head high, but lately I've seen some normally very friendly beachbreaks turn into slab-like barrels.

The shot below was taken by my friend Paul Joseph and was right out front of a place I surf every other day... it doesn't normally look like this. There was a lot of water moving and I was struggling to get into position and get down the face on my 5'7" Twin Keel Verve. The first wave I did cartwheels down the face and the next freight-trained off in front of me.

Its a pleasant change to surf some waves over head high and get bullied around again. Hope if you're reading this you're getting some waves too.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

my new verve

Picked up my new 5''7 verve from the Valla factory yesterday.... safe to say I'm pretty stoked.... thanks heaps Sage, I will let you know how she goes

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Rudy Jacques- Photography.

sage this morning

I spent the morning down the beach with Sage, the waves were pretty good. I got this little snap of Sage along with a stack of pretty good video footage which I might put into a little clip one day. Sage was surfing his 5'7 twin keel verve. It's his board of choice when the waves have some power, it sure was working for him out there today.

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

One Day, One Slay

One day...One slay.... part III from Nicholas Damen on Vimeo.

2 weeks after I acquired my provisional licence I drove myself down to the town of Newcastle on a Thursday afternoon. I like Newcastle; it’s like the northern beaches. Just ghetto. A lot less BMW’s and Range Rovers driving around. I was there to meet Nicholas Damen. The aim to shoot another edit in his ‘One Day, One Slay’ series.

The swell was south and the winds were strong. Not the ideal weather for Newcastle for surfing let alone logging. That Thursday night as we sat in ‘Grill’d’ eating lamb hamburgers we made the decision to head south.

We had a tip to head to the Coal Coast. We departed Newcastle at 4 am and didn’t arrive back till 7 that night. This edit you see here is what we discovered. Proves those quick day trips are worth your time.

Jack Lynch X Nicholas Damen

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Valla single...

I found this shot on the PLB website. It's of me riding a Paul Joske pre-75 single fin in the final at the Minni waters Dunga day.
I actually walked away with a win at this one.
Surprisingly old boards like this still go unreal. 
I'll try and get some outline shot of this board and post them up.

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Quiver Shot: Byron 2010

Did a run up to the Pass recently to hang out with DH, Taylor, Cyrus, Richard and Leo. Waves weren't great but we had fun.

This is part of my current quiver and includes from left to right: 9'6" Vibe Log, 9'6" Log, 8'6" Kiko'o, 6'6" Alaia, 8'9" Alaia, 6'0" Vector, 7'0" Single Fin, 5'10" Quad Shorty, 5'7" Twin Keel Fish, 5'7" Styrofoam/Epoxy Quad Verve, 5'7" Styrofoam/Epoxy Quad Volta, 5'7" Twin Keel Vibe. My father made the Single Fin and the 8'9" Alaia and the rest are my own creations.

Quiver shot is by Cyrus Sutton. It was nice to hang out with Cyrus and watch his new movie 'Stoked and Broke'. Not only is Cyrus a talented filmmaker but he also surfs really well too.

Friday, May 6, 2011

Home Is Where the Heart Is

I have been considering lately how blessed I am to be able to work everyday, doing something I love.

Pics by Morgan Maasen

super windy...

Here's a pic that Ben from "Inbyronbaytoday" snapped up yesterday afternoon. I like this shot because the crazy lip line shows how insanely windy it was out there. Days like this really challenge your tip riding.

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Nathan Oldfield Flaring

My dad was talking to his mate on the phone the other night, who was explaining to him how Nathan Oldfield has been ripping lately on his fish.

Nathan's in the process of collecting footage for another film which I'm sure will be heartfelt like his previous ones. He's also a schoolteacher and a devoted family man. So it's nice to see Nathan finding some spaces in his busy life to get out in the surf and enjoy it.

Nathan flicked me through the above pic a while back now to show me how his Volta was going. So when dad told me about his phone call it prompted me to post it.

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Cyrus Sutton x Valla Surfboards

Cyrus Sutton, finding some joy on one of Sage's saltwater toys.

6'0" Verve Quad

New Verve for Matt Clem. He's had a few surfs already and tells me he's enjoying the speed and responsive feel.

Wishing you many happy waves bro.